ADVENTURES

Restoran Nyonya Makko (Nyonya Makko Restaurant)

When Nyonya Food Decided to Turn Up the Heat

By Philemon Foo

There are meals you eat because you are hungry. And then there are meals where you sit there afterwards thinking, Good grief, that was brilliant. My experience at Restoran Nyonya Makko in Melaka was very much the second kind.

I walked in expecting Nyonya food, which means I was already expecting a delicious party of chilli, herbs, spices, fragrant delights, and enough flavour to make my taste buds start doing cartwheels. I was not disappointed.

A delicious fried fish topped with spicy and tasty chilli. Great for chilli lovers. If you cannot take the heat, prepare lots of water.

Ikan Goreng Chili Garam

The first dish that really grabbed me by the collar was the Ikan Goreng Chili Garam. Oh, yes, lovely dish. The fish was crispy, properly crispy, with that lovely texture where you bite through the outside and get into the tender fish beneath. Then came the chilli. Glorious, fiery chilli.

I like spicy food, so this was right up my alley. The chilli was not there merely to show off and make you sweat for entertainment. It was delicious and packed with flavour.

Of course, if your relationship with chilli is complicated, I would recommend having plenty of water nearby. Actually, forget plenty. Bring a swimming pool.

Sambal Sotong Petai

Then came the Sambal Sotong Petai (stinky beans), and this one had me smiling. I love sambal petai. There is something about that unmistakable petai fragrance combined with a good sambal that makes the whole thing wonderfully addictive.

Sambal Sotong Petai is a dish I love. Any restaurant I go to, and see this dish in their menu, I’m ordering it. Delicious…

Here, the sambal was deliciously spicy, while the petai brought its wonderfully odd, slightly rebellious aroma to the party. Then you get the natural sweetness of the squid, and suddenly everything makes sense. Spicy sambal + fragrant petai + sweet squid = yummy yummy in my tummy. Food math… There you go.

That there is a “killer” combination, the sort that makes you say, “Just one more spoon.” And then you realise you have eaten half the dish. You were under hypnosis perhaps, but who cares? Bring more, more, more… Things I say to myself, and not out loud.

Otak-Otak

The Otak Otak was another winner. Now, I have always enjoyed the magic of otak otak because it somehow manages to squeeze so much flavour into something that looks rather innocent.

This one had that beautiful combination of coconut milk, chilli, fish, herbs, and spices. Everything comes together into what I can only describe as a spicy, savoury little cake from the sea of Nyonya heritage. Soft, fragrant, rich, and delicious. And yes, there is chilli in there.

For someone who cannot handle spicy food, this is not going to be a gentle introduction. This is more like being invited to a party and discovering the party is being hosted by a red hot chilli peppers… I am not sure if the band is even as spicy as this dish. But for those of us who enjoy a bit of heat, it is thoroughly enjoyable.

Otak-otak, delicious. I must admit that this is not the best I have eaten, but still, it is delicious. I will definitely order this dish again.

Beyond the food, I also liked the atmosphere at Restoran Nyonya Makko. The restaurant embraces Nyonya heritage, with traditional decorations, and items giving the place a sense of identity. It does not feel like you are simply sitting down somewhere to fill your stomach. There is a sense of place, and that matters.

Melaka has a remarkable food culture, and Nyonya cuisine is one of the things that makes the city so fascinating. The food tells a story about heritage, tradition, and generations of cooking knowledge.

At Restoran Nyonya Makko, I got to enjoy a little bit of that story, one spicy mouthful at a time. Needless to say, I enjoyed myself, the delicious food, the surroundings, and most importantly, I left with that wonderfully satisfied feeling you get after a meal that has done exactly what food is supposed to do… Make you happy.

Some of the heritage collection on display at the restaurant.

I love chilli, and I did find the food to ba a little spicy. So, if you are uncomfortable with chilli, and if you are going for the Ikan Goreng Chili Garam, the Sambal Sotong Petai, and the Otak Otak, perhaps bring water, or milk… Lots of them… Just in case the chilli decides it wants the last word.